Ashok, in his fascinating, informative, and occasionally hilarious blog about life in India, has charted the average level of contentment of freshly arrived expatriates in India. I think his findings are applicable to Panama as well:
"There has been enough expatriate evidence acquired to actually predict and plot an expatriate's happiness or contentment over time.
Because of the excitement of the adventure, you start at a 10. The first month is culture shock. Drop to 7. The second month is honeymoon. Jump to 9. Then real life starts to smother you and you lose your elasticity to novel situations. By the end of the sixth month you are at a 3,but then you begin to understand the situation and what you need to do to succeed. A plateau occurs at the 12th month when you’re at 6.
Three. Today is three..."
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Monday, January 11, 2010
El Valle Annual Concert by National Symphony Orchestra on January 30th
Although El Valle is a small town with a largely indigenous population, it also has a significant population of "weekenders" - rich Panamanians who keep vacation homes in the cool climate of El Valle, as a getaway from the heat of Panama City. There are many palatial homes in El Valle, especially along the circumference of the town, at the feet of the foothills. Some of them have vast, manicured grounds with gardens, streams, ponds and horse stables.
Because of this, things happen in El Valle that you would not normally expect in a little mountain town. Among those is the annual pilgrimage of Panama's National Symphony Orchestra to play in El Valle's little church. The streets outside the church fill up with SUV's as well dressed families fill every pew in the church. Less affluent residents who cannot afford the tickets stand outside the door and peer in the windows to benefit from this special event.
I went once with Laura and Salma, and Salma was initially entranced, but as the evening progressed and we were well past her bedtime she became cranky. I tried taking her outside and rocking her in my arms, but she would not settle down and eventually we had to take her home to sleep.
This year's concert is coming up and will be the 19th annual concert. Here is the official flyer for this year's event:
XIX Festival Musical de El Valle
Saturday, the 30th of January, 2010 at 8:00 pm
Iglesia San Jose in El Valle de Antón, Coclé, Rep. de Panamá
***
La Asociación del Festival Musical de El Valle
y el Instituto Nacional de Cultura (INAC)
Presents
GRAND CONCERT
NATIONAL SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA
Director, Maestro Jorge Ledezma
Guest Soloist: JINGJING WANG
(CHINA)
First Prize winner of Panama's 2008 International Piano Competition
PROGRAM
1. Astor Piazzola The Death of the Angel
(for string orchestra , soloist Juan Castillo)
2. Georges Bizet Suite from "Carmen"
Intermission
3. Robert Schumann Piano Concerto in A Minor, Op. 54
Guest Soloist: JingJing Wang
(Piano)
TICKETS are available for $15.00:
In El Valle: at Centro Comercial de El Valle or at the entrance of the Church the night of the performance
In Panama City: at Ingeniería R-M or at Joyería Barakat
Email: festivaldelvalle@ gmail.com
Because of this, things happen in El Valle that you would not normally expect in a little mountain town. Among those is the annual pilgrimage of Panama's National Symphony Orchestra to play in El Valle's little church. The streets outside the church fill up with SUV's as well dressed families fill every pew in the church. Less affluent residents who cannot afford the tickets stand outside the door and peer in the windows to benefit from this special event.
I went once with Laura and Salma, and Salma was initially entranced, but as the evening progressed and we were well past her bedtime she became cranky. I tried taking her outside and rocking her in my arms, but she would not settle down and eventually we had to take her home to sleep.
This year's concert is coming up and will be the 19th annual concert. Here is the official flyer for this year's event:
XIX Festival Musical de El Valle
Saturday, the 30th of January, 2010 at 8:00 pm
Iglesia San Jose in El Valle de Antón, Coclé, Rep. de Panamá
***
La Asociación del Festival Musical de El Valle
y el Instituto Nacional de Cultura (INAC)
Presents
GRAND CONCERT
NATIONAL SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA
Director, Maestro Jorge Ledezma
Guest Soloist: JINGJING WANG
(CHINA)
First Prize winner of Panama's 2008 International Piano Competition
PROGRAM
1. Astor Piazzola The Death of the Angel
(for string orchestra , soloist Juan Castillo)
2. Georges Bizet Suite from "Carmen"
Intermission
3. Robert Schumann Piano Concerto in A Minor, Op. 54
Guest Soloist: JingJing Wang
(Piano)
TICKETS are available for $15.00:
In El Valle: at Centro Comercial de El Valle or at the entrance of the Church the night of the performance
In Panama City: at Ingeniería R-M or at Joyería Barakat
Email: festivaldelvalle@
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
"Are You Healthy? Are You Crazy?" Getting a Panamanian Driver's License if You're Over 70
Jan Knight writes on the Panama Forum that her husband, who is 78 years old, recently applied for a Panamanian driver's license. Apparently anyone over the age of 70 must have a letter from a doctor stating that he is healthy and mentally stable (i.e. not senile).
They went to a doctor who looked at Jan's husband and said, "Are you healthy?"
"Yes."
"Are you crazy?"
"No."
The doctor looked at Jan for confirmation of these facts, then wrote the letter out by hand.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Things that take you back: ordering a Subway sandwich
After a gym workout this evening, I went looking for something to eat and noticed a Subway sandwich shop at Shaw and Palm, across from the Fig Garden Village center. I pulled up just a few minutes before closing and was not surprised to see a young Indian woman behind the counter. So far, every Subway I've visited in Fresno has been owned by Indians. Gotta love that enterprising spirit. Can you imagine going to India and monopolizing the samosa industry?
In Panama I went to Subway more often than I ever did in the USA. When I lived in El Dorado I frequented the one on the "Do-It Center" street, in the small shopping center that has the two Chinese vegetarian restaurants. After I moved to El Valle de Anton, I used to stop at the Subway in Coronado whenever I was on my way back from the city. The first several times I had to ask the names of the various sandwich ingredients, and the staff always answered me with a chuckle or a smirk. In time, as my Spanish improved and I racked up the Subway visits, I became very comfortable ordering in Spanish.
Walking into the Subway tonight, I had a flashback to Panama, and had to resist the urge to order "atun grande con pan integral."
Somehow life in Panama was richer, more full of the "stuff of life" in a way. More friendships, more interesting experiences, more challenges, more frustration and laughter and spirit-lifting beauty.
I was talking to a friend recently, and I said that I didn't know how to think of Panama now. What is it to me? What does it represent? And my friend said, "I think it is your home."
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
How to eliminate silverfish
No, not this kind of silverfish:

This kind!
This creepy little insect is a silverfish. I hate these disgusting little creatures. They don't bite and don't carry diseases, but they move in a fast slither that is just plain creepy; and if you're fast enough to smack one, they smear into a grey smudge.
In Panama (especially in rural areas), silverfish will be found in any place that has books, paper, cardboard, boxes, etc. I never saw them in Panama City, but I saw plenty in El Valle de Anton. This may be because of El Valle's elevation and relative coolness. Silverfish don't like temperatures above 80 Fahrenheit.
Silverfish especially eat foods and products that are high in protein, sugar, or starch. This includes vegetable foods, such as flour and cereal; fabrics, including cotton, linen, silk, and rayon; sizing in paper; starch in clothing; and paste or glue. They also eat wallpaper, book bindings, and paper when trying to feed on the glue or paste underneath them. Their damage is usually recognized from their irregular feeding marks and the presence of feces. Silverfish and firebrats can go for months without feeding.
They lay eggs in cracks, crevices, and other narrow, confined spaces. Silverfish prefer cool, moist, dark places with temperatures between 70o - 80° F and a relative humidity between 75% - 95%. They are often associated with basements, closets, bookcases, and storage areas.
How to Get Rid of Silverfish
Silverfish and firebrats are associated with damp conditions. You can reduce their numbers by correcting moisture problems:
- Dry out damp areas with a fan or dehumidifier.
- Repair leaky pipes.
- Ventilate closed rooms.
- Repair leaking roofs.
- Seal concrete walls and floors.
- If the problem occurs in a bathroom, make sure the ventilation fan is used during baths and showers.
- If you can not move materials, provide air spaces between boxes and other objects to promote air circulation.
- Keep in mind that as air cools the humidity in that air increases, so using a dehumidifier or gently heating the surrounding air can have a big impact on the infestation!
You can also reduce silverfish and firebrats by removing sources of food, especially in damp areas. You can reduce potential hiding places by removing old papers, books, boxes and other clutter. Seal cracks and crevices, including those found in baseboards, cupboards, and walls to limit harborages.
Kill Silverfish with Boric Acid
Last but not least, poison them! This can be done with boric acid, a type of inorganic dust. Common trade names include Roach Powder® and Roach Prufe®. Diatomaceous earth, also known as silicon dioxide, is also available. A representative trade name is Concern®. Follow the label and place the dust in cracks and crevices where silverfish have been sighted. Do not apply dust where children and pets can reach it.
You can also make residual spot treatments along baseboards, cracks and crevices, and other areas where silverfish or firebrats are found. Insecticides, such as permethrin, deltamethrin, cyfluthrin, and cypermethrin are effective insecticides against these insects.
In Panama you can purchase boric acid (acida borica in Spanish) at most hardware stores or Chinos (Chinese-owned corner stores). Buy it in bulk, by the pound if possible, rather than the small packets sold in the Chinos.
Borax Soap for Ants
Doug on Panama Forum points out that you can also use a 50-50 mixture of borax soap and icing sugar to get rid of sugar ants. The ants take this toxic mixture to their nest and share with the colony, and they all die.
On that cheery note, take care and be silverfish-free!
Monday, September 7, 2009
Find a way further in
I'm watching a movie called The International. A high-ranking executive of a powerful but corrupt bank is teaching his son to play chess. His colleagues call him on a conference call to discuss a messy situation that is threatening the entire bank.
The executive turns to his son and asks, "What do you when you are stuck in a situation from which there is no way out?"
He's asking in terms of chess theory. His son understands this. His son replies, "If there's no way out... you find a way further in."
Whoa. He's exactly right. This is what the chess grandmasters do. They marshal their resources and launch an attack, and press it. They know that once they commit, it's do or die. They sacrifice and drop pieces to the left and right like shattered swords. And if they are clever, creative and persistent enough, they break through and topple the enemy's king. They play in a way that seems brilliant and reckless, but is actually brilliant, calculated and single minded. Bobby Fisher was famous for this.
I've often felt that chess is a metaphor for life. Imagine living your life that way. That would take much courage. But if you look at anyone who has truly made it big in life, you will see the same pattern, the same go-for-broke mentality.
I remember developing the website that is now my primary earner. It was back in 1998 or so. I hired a company in India to build what I needed for $5,000. I had no money and didn't know how I would pay them. Somehow I came up with enough money each month to pay installments until the website was complete.
Now I would not sell that website for less than $300,000.
Do you have a story of committing yourself fully to something, with no backing out? How did it turn out?
P.S. The photo depicts an antique Islamic chess set from Cambodia.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Arroz Con Leche (rice with milk) for a baby's first tooth
The little daughter of my lawyer and friend Berliza recently cut her first tooth. The baby's name is Maria Fernanda, or Marifè for short.
I mentioned to Berliza that some cultures celebrate this event, and she told me that indeed in Panama there is a custom for this:

"In our culture the tradition is that the first person who sees the tooth has to cook rice and milk (a dessert). We put them in little containers, usually nicely decorated for the occasion and we give them away to friends and family. We are working on that right now."
This rice and milk dessert is called in Spanish arroz con leche. In the photo you see the actual dessert that Berliza made.
And here is lovely little Marifè getting her first taste:
I mentioned to Berliza that some cultures celebrate this event, and she told me that indeed in Panama there is a custom for this:

"In our culture the tradition is that the first person who sees the tooth has to cook rice and milk (a dessert). We put them in little containers, usually nicely decorated for the occasion and we give them away to friends and family. We are working on that right now."
This rice and milk dessert is called in Spanish arroz con leche. In the photo you see the actual dessert that Berliza made.
And here is lovely little Marifè getting her first taste:
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Should We Try to Change Panama?
There are always discussions on the Panama Forum between those who feel that new immigrants and residents of Panama have a right to try to effect change; and those who feel that we are guests in the country and should not be so presumptuous as to try to change their culture.
Ronald Davis recently wrote an interest post on this subject, and I'm reprinting it here. Comments are welcome:
***
"Those who come from far away lands to these Panamanian shores to seek refuge and a new beginning - and who often times spend a whole lot of their money, time, and effort in this new land, and who subsequently see an "evil" in their newly adopted land - once the rosy colored glasses have been removed - are, in my opinion, honor bound to try and achieve change so that such an "evil" does not continue to occur in the future. Whether you succeed or fail in youir endeavor is of secondary consequence.
However, those ex-pats who sit back and do nothing about said "evil", who merely observe the passing landscape as if said landscape were in a book of fiction they were reading should be, in a more just world, consigned to some inner circle of hell.
Complications and Nuances: Clearly there is such a thing as cultural relativity, even situational ethics. And this is something that must, by all means, be taken into account. To wit: What is good or culturally acceptable in Country A is not always considered good or culturally acceptable in Country B. Some examples of this would be female genital mutilation, consigning newly widowed woman to funeral pyres, eating primates or dogs, beating wives and children, keeping slaves [yes, slavery still exists in parts of this world] and so on and on. Of course, there are many other examples of these cultural differences, some important, some not so important - and thus my use of quotes around the word evil.
Sooo . . . if you are living in such a new land and you were to see something that gives you great distress, something that you see as truly wrong, what should you do about it? Just sit back, look the other way, and accept these practices - whatever they may be - as indigenous to a given culture and, therefore, not worthy of public comment or even public action on your part? That's certainly one way to look at it. But if you were to decide to travel down this path, would you not also be complicit - in part or in whole - in what is - by your own definition - an evil? And would it not be condescending, really condescending, if you were to say that a given culture, a given people, has been doing same for a thousand years and, after all, they cannot/will not change, and, so, who are you, one person, to try and change them?
Puh-leaze!
All cultures, all peoples change, evolve, and metamorphize into something new and different over the years. Some from internal, some from external forces. Some quickly, some slowly.
So the only question for me is how to achieve change when you decide change is really neccesary and to what degree can an individual do so? Trying to ram something new down someone's throat rarely, if ever, works. So the method of going about how to change someone/something need - common-sense should always dictate - be one of evolution, not revolution; one that is carried out with great care and greater tact. And it often needs be shown that there are specific benefits - usually economic - to adopting a new way, a new method, if you are to be successful in your endeavors.
On a tiny, even infinitesimal level, as an example, it is showing visible displeasure when a Panamanian worker shows up three hours late for a job you have hired him/her for. But how to express your obvious displeasure is the key to this kind of situation. Humor, anger, sarcasm, even economic sanctions [i.e., firing the bobo/boba on the spot and telling him/her you will only deal with workers in the future who can tell time, and, in addition, that you find it personally insulting that he/she cares so little about you that he or she can needlessly waste your time like he/she already has], all these methods and others have their place in your possible responses to this kind of situation.
But to just sit back and say nothing, except on this forum, or to stew in your own angry juices and do nothing about this kind of a situation, is to my way of thinking, totally unacceptable. To say that the "manana" concept has been and, therefore, will always be a part of Latin culture is also unacceptable and, again, such an approach, I believe, is to treat people in a condescending manner, much like you might treat a retarded child whom you believe is incapable of growth or change. Tell me that kind of attitude here in Panama does not often border on racism?
England like Panama has been a racist society for many years. There were times in Great Britain when an English worker refused at his place of employment to even sit next to a "Packy" and now, years later, the most popular of all foods sold in Great Britain comes from the Indian subcontinent and who you work besides has as much relevance as where your shoes are made or the color of your socks.
The U.S. like Panama has been a racist society for many years. There were times in the U.S. when having a black president was as conceivable as flying to the moon and then . . . ahem . . . things changed.
My wife and I have had many excellent Panamanian workers in our employ since our arrival here four years ago - and some true slackers too. Many of the best of them were trained in the Canal Zone and are proud of their acquired skills and the importance of being on time. There are also companies here in Panama who have spent considerable time, effort, and money in training their workers to be more efficient and proud of their work. If they can do it, so can you, albeit, on a more personal level, IF the desire, patience, and good will is there. Small changes over time can become big changes.
Else, in my opinion, go quietly into the night and dare not criticize your newly adopted country for any reason, for you have no right to do so - at least not within my hearing."
- Ron
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Essential Ramadan Reading
Some phrase or image on my blog related to Ramadan seems to be sending some serious search engine traffic my way - as in 800 readers in a single day! - so I thought I would give you folks something productive to do with your time, ha ha.Here are some excellent books that I consider essential Islamic reading. Any one of them would be great to read a little from every evening after Iftar, or to give as a gift. All are available through the link below:
1. An Interpretation of the Qur'an : English Translation of the Meanings : A Bilingual Edition (Majid Fakhry) - I have this and I read it often. It's an excellent, modern and scholarly translation. If you're still reading Yusuf Ali's poetic but archaic translation, it's time to check out something different.
2. The Qur'an : A New Translation (Dr. Thomas Cleary) - I would have listed this first except that it's in English only. The language is modern and clear, yet retains some of the powerful poetry of the Arabic. I highly recommend it.
3. Muhammad : His Life Based on the Earliest Sources : Revised Edition : Martin Lings (Abu Bakr Siraj Ad-Din) - All-time best-selling book on the life of the Prophet (pbuh), now the latest revised edition. You may have read some of the briefer Seerahs (biographies of the Prophet Muhammad) such as The Sealed Nectar of The Life of the Prophet Muhammad, but you have not experienced the breadth and depth of Muhammad's (pbuh) struggle and indomitable character until you have read this book.
Well, as you can see my preference is for more scholarly works, but you can find all kinds of good stuff at IslamicBookstore.com, including children's books, movies and CDs, and toys. I have been shopping with them for several years now.
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Happy Ramadan and may every year find you well
The holy month of Ramadan is almost here and I'd like to wish a Ramadan Mubarak - blessed Ramadan - to all my Muslim readers.Ramadan is such a special, unique time. On the one hand the fast of Ramadan is the most personal and challenging act of worship that a person can dedicate to God, aside perhaps from the Hajj. On the other hand, it is a time of family and community. It builds and strengthens so many of the best aspects of human character: patience, compassion, perseverance, and taqwa (God-consciousness).
We fast not only from food and water, but from anger, impatience, corruption, selfishness, and causing hurt to others. We renew our spirits so that we come out of Ramadan with a new feeling of dedication to God, pledged to do better, and strong to face the challenges of life.
I always have mixed feelings about the coming of Ramadan. After all, it is quite difficult, especially during these summer months when the days are long and hot (not so much for those of you in Panama, lol, where the days are always the same length and the seasons are only rainy or dry - but here in Central California summer days are in the 100 to 110 degrees range).
On the other hand, it's such an exciting time, offering the prospect of spiritual purification and forgiveness from God. And that overcomes any trepidation that I may have.
At the same time, I have a major web project going on - a complete overhaul of the Zawaj.com Muslim matrimonial service. I'm excited about that.
Take care. My best wishes to all of you, regardless of your faith. Keep your heads up, know God, and know yourselves. If any of my Panama friends are reading this: Henry and Nora, Rudy and Christina, Cleo and family, Niko and family, Zach and Danyelle, Berliza and family, Dr. Medrano, Bill and Adam Brunner, Rosa and family, Listo, Ani, Corrin, Rene, and all the rest (forgive me if I did not name you!), you are all dear to my heart and I am thinking of you.
To my non-Panama friends, well, there are too many to list, so: Ramadan Mubarak, and peace be upon you.
I've been browsing the web, reading articles about Ramadan and looking at photos, and I have come across some of the most amazing and beautiful Ramadan photos. Here are the links for your pleasure. The first batch comes from Boston.com, published last year.
Next are some outstanding photos from Time Magazine:
And a couple of beautiful images from National Geographic (one photo per URL):
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